Deciding between balayage and highlights is one of the most common dilemmas we hear at the salon. Both techniques add dimension and brightness to your hair, but the results, the maintenance, and the overall feel are quite different. Picking the wrong one can mean more time in the salon chair than you'd like — or a look that doesn't quite match what you had in mind.
So let's sort it out properly. Here's an honest comparison based on what our colourists see every day at Hello Beauty in Edinburgh, plus some practical guidance on which technique suits different hair types, lifestyles, and budgets.
Balayage: The Low-Maintenance Option
Balayage comes from the French word meaning "to sweep," and that's exactly what happens during the process. Your colourist hand-paints lightener directly onto selected sections of your hair using sweeping motions — no foils, no caps. The result is a soft, graduated effect that's lighter at the ends and more natural around the roots.
What makes balayage so popular is the grow-out. Because the colour is concentrated through the mid-lengths and ends, there's no harsh root line as your hair grows. You can comfortably go ten to twelve weeks between appointments without it looking untidy. For anyone with a packed schedule or a preference for lower-maintenance beauty routines, that's a significant advantage.
Balayage works beautifully on most hair types and lengths, though it tends to look its best on medium to long hair where there's enough length for the graduated effect to show. It's particularly striking on brunettes — adding warm caramel, honey, or toffee tones that catch the light without overwhelming the natural base colour.
At Hello Beauty, we use ammonia-free professional formulas for all our colour work, which means less damage to the hair structure and a softer, healthier feel after the appointment.
Highlights: The Brighter, Bolder Choice
Traditional highlights use foils to isolate individual sections of hair, allowing the lightener to lift the colour from root to tip. The result is more defined, more uniform, and generally brighter than balayage.
Highlights give you more control over exactly where the lightness sits. You can go for a full head of highlights for maximum brightness, a half head to focus on the top layers, or a T-section that just lifts the parting and the pieces around your face.
The trade-off is maintenance. Because the colour starts at the root, regrowth is more visible. Most highlight clients come back every six to eight weeks for a touch-up, which does add up over the year — both in time and cost. But if you love that fresh, just-done look and don't mind the regular appointments, highlights deliver a brightness that balayage doesn't quite match.
Highlights are also the better option if you're looking to go significantly lighter than your natural shade. Balayage is subtle by nature; foil highlights can achieve a more dramatic lift, which makes them the go-to technique for anyone wanting a serious blonde transformation.
Face-Framing: The Best of Both
One trend that's been hugely popular at the salon recently is face-framing highlights — sometimes called a "money piece." This involves placing brighter, lighter pieces specifically around the front of your face, framing your features and drawing attention to your eyes and cheekbones.
You can combine face-framing highlights with a full balayage for a multidimensional look, or add them to a single-process colour for a bit of brightness without committing to all-over highlights. It's a versatile technique that works on just about everyone and adds a flattering lift to the whole face.
Which Technique Suits Your Hair Type?
Fine hair
Balayage can sometimes look a bit flat on very fine hair because there isn't enough density for the graduated effect to show. Fine-haired clients often get better results with finely woven highlights that create brightness throughout. Your colourist can place them strategically to give the illusion of thicker, fuller hair.
Thick or coarse hair
Both techniques work well on thicker hair. Balayage can add beautiful movement and depth, while highlights create striking contrast. It really comes down to whether you prefer a natural or more defined result.
Curly hair
Balayage tends to be the better option for curls because the hand-painted technique follows the natural fall of the curl pattern. Foil highlights can sometimes look patchy on curly hair because the curls move and overlap unpredictably.
Short hair
With less length to work with, balayage can look quite subtle on shorter styles. Face-framing highlights or a partial foil set often work better for adding dimension to bobs and crops.
Grey hair
If you're blending grey, highlights are typically the more effective option. Strategic foil placement can disguise grey hairs by surrounding them with lighter tones, making the greys virtually invisible. Balayage can help too, but it's better suited for someone who wants to embrace their grey gradually rather than fully covering it.
The Cost Comparison
Let's be upfront about pricing, because it does matter when you're planning your colour schedule for the year.
A balayage appointment is generally more expensive per visit than highlights because the technique takes longer and requires a high level of skill. However, because you only need to come in every ten to twelve weeks, the annual cost tends to even out.
Highlights cost less per appointment but need refreshing every six to eight weeks, so you'll have more salon visits across the year.
Either way, you can check our current pricing on the Hello Beauty price list. We're always transparent about what things cost, and your colourist will give you a clear quote during the consultation before any colour goes on.
Aftercare for Both Techniques
Whichever technique you go for, good aftercare keeps the colour vibrant and your hair healthy:
Use a sulphate-free shampoo. Sulphates strip colour faster and dry out lightened hair. Investing in a decent colour-protect shampoo makes a genuine difference to how long your colour lasts.
Deep condition weekly. Lightened hair needs extra moisture. A weekly conditioning mask — even a five-minute one — keeps things soft and shiny.
Book a toner refresh between appointments. If your blonde starts pulling warm or brassy (especially over the Edinburgh winter), a quick toner appointment takes 30 minutes and resets the tone beautifully. This is something we do regularly at the salon and it's a fraction of the cost of a full colour appointment.
Use heat protection every single time you use straighteners or a hairdryer. Lightened hair is more vulnerable to heat damage. It's a small habit that makes a big difference over time.
Still Not Sure? Book a Consultation
The truth is, the best technique depends entirely on your individual hair, your natural base colour, how much maintenance you're comfortable with, and what you're hoping to achieve. A ten-minute consultation with one of our colourists at Hello Beauty will give you a clear recommendation — no pressure, no commitment.
We're based at 13 South Charlotte Street in Edinburgh, right on Charlotte Square. You can book a colour consultation or a full colouring appointment online, or just give us a message if you've got questions.
Have a browse through our hair colouring services for more details on what we offer, or take a look at our other hair services if you're thinking about a full refresh.
Hello Beauty Salon, 13 South Charlotte Street, Edinburgh EH2 4AS. Open Monday to Sunday, 10:00–19:00.
